Rotor
Care:
Oil: Use a light oil (Holton, Yamaha, Al Cass, etc..) or, if worn, use woodwind key oil. If rotor is really worn, use Singer sewing machine oil. Oil your valves often.
Loose Bearings: Loose bearings cause rotor to wear which produces leaks and noise. A
competent repair tech with the right tools can tighten the loose
bearings. As long as bearings are tight, the valve will
last forever.
Cleaning: Regular oiling keeps rotors clean. If mushy and slow, drip dishwashing liquid into
valve, work the valve, and rinse out well. If really “crunchy,” remove rotor (only if
you have been taught how to remove the rotor), wash rotor and casing with dish
soap, soak rotor in white vinegar, wash again and reassemble. DO NOT use any
ABRASIVES.

Stringing
Valves:
Use about 6” of
braided nylon fishing line, parachute thread or brand-name valve string (i.e.
Yamaha). Tie a knot in one end. Pass the string through the first hole in the
lever. Pass it around the center post
and all the way around the small string screw.
Hold the free end taut and tighten the string screw. The valve lever will now remain in place.
Continue the rest
of the way around the center post, and pass the string through the other hole
in the lever. Pass it around the lever
string screw and back through the loop just created. Pull the string taut and tighten the lever
screw.
Adjust the lever
height by loosening the string screw and pull the lever to the desired
position. If you place the horn up side
down with the keys on a flat place (table or desk), the levers will all line
up, making adjustments of the strings and levers very easy. Retighten the string screw when finished.
Valve
Woes:
Click & Clack: bearings are worn allowing side-to-side play or end play. This requires
professional attention, and if allowed to continue, will result in worn and leaky
rotors. Check and tighten all screws.
Leaky Valves: get
out your checkbook, your horn may need a valve job.
Slow and Mushy: old grease and oil build up causes slow rotors. Be careful when you oil down
through the slide tubes. Valve oil can melt the slide grease causing it to ooze
down into the rotors. To clean, pour dishwashing liquid into rotor, work the
rotors, and then rinse out thoroughly with water. While you’re at it, why
not give the whole horn a bath? Be careful to not stick the cleaning “snake”
down into the
rotors. It will get stuck.
Just plain slow: look for too tight of a string, string rubbing against itself, weak valve spring.
Have you oiled your rotors lately?
Crunchy and sticks: possibly green corrosion or dirt. When you take the rotor cap off, do you
see green? If so, visit your local repairman who can chemically clean out
the corrosion. Make it a resolution to better care for your instrument by
regularly oiling the rotors and
brushing your teeth before playing.
Won’t move at all: Don’t force the valve because you can do serious damage. If in an
emergency situation, oil all rotor parts and then turn horn over. Carefully
try to move the rotor arm back and forth with your fingers. If it won’t
budge, leave it be and see if the oil can work its way into the rotor. If
after repeating the above steps and it is still not working, take your horn to
see
your friendly repairman.